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Buddhism the Jack Kerouac Way: A South Korean Templestay

Buddhism the Jack Kerouac Way: A South Korean Templestay has been published over at the Literary Traveler. Well if the name fits… Just kidding. I can barely read.

Jack Kerouac’s novel, The Dharma Bums, is so full of sweet words and joy that every line I read made me want to jump out of my window, go climb a mountain and pray. Kerouac never gave a ‘goddamn about the mythology and all the names’ of Buddhism, he just sat cross-legged in the Californian wilds, meditating in peace. Which sounded just fine to me, but I was in Seoul, surrounded by over fifty Buddhist temples. This could be my only chance to hear someone talk about Kharma, without wanting to ridicule.

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo, a nun at Myogaksa Temple who is beautiful inside and out.

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo, a nun at Myogaksa Temple who is beautiful inside and out.

templestay - yeo yeo 1

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Templestay

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Templestay

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Templestay

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Templestay

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Templestay

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Templestay

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Templestay

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Templestay

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Temple

Photo courtesy of Yeo Yeo at Myogaksa Temple

Beautiful, Untranslatable Words in Japanese, Chinese, Russian, and Czech

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The beauty of untranslatable words is in their ability to capture the feelings we don’t know how to put into words. I am glad there are languages out there which capture the unspeakable subtleties of our soul with one simple word.

Following my earlier post on beautiful, untranslatable Japanese words, here are some more words from around the world that capture the essence of one of my favourite Japanese untranslatables; Shibui, the true sophistication in simple things:

Ikigai (Japanese)

Ikigai is a Japanese word meaning “reason for being.” On the island of Okinawa, it is thought of as “a reason to get up in the morning,” a philosophy which has been linked to the longevity of the people there.

Xingfu (Chinese)

A sort of happiness or contentedness felt through having everything you want in life and/or not having any looming worries. It describes a long-term feeling about one’s life situation rather than a happiness achieved through a singular outcome or situation.

Wei-wu-wei (Chinese)

Conscious non-action. The deliberate and principled decision to do nothing for a particular reason.

Koi No Yokan (Japanese)

The sense one can have upon first meeting a person that the two of you are going to fall in love. Differs from “love at first sight” as it does not imply that the feeling of love exists, only the knowledge that a future love is inevitable.

Toski (Russian)

At its deepest and most painful, it is a sensation of great spiritual anguish, often without any specific cause. On of more subtle level it is a dull ache of the soul, a longing with nothing to long for, a sick pining, a vague restlessness, mental throes, yearning. In particular cases, it may be the desire for somebody of something specific, nostalgia, love-sickness. At the lowest level it grades into ennui, boredom.

Litost (Czech)

Milan Kundera said of the word, “I have looked in vain in other languages for an equivalent, though I find it difficult to imagine how anyone can understand the human soul without it.” The closest definition is a state of agony and torment created by the sudden sight of one’s own misery.

Ya’aburnee (Arabic)

Literally meaning “You bury me,” Ya’aburnee is used to describe someone’s hope that they’ll die before another person because of how difficult it would be to live without them.

 

The Pagoda and the Drunks: What would Kerouac do in Busan?

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Jack Kerouac is the ultimate Dharma Bum. He drank a lot, he prayed a lot. Whether in Busan‘s bars or Seoul’s temples, asking ‘What would Jack do?’ while in South Korea can lead to joy.

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Imagine you live in the Scottish countryside. At night, there are so many stars the constellations get lost. Every morning, hard light streams through the windows and onto the dark North Sea a few fields away. The days are filled with people you love, joints of roast beef, puddings and pies. Your life is so comfortable you could scream, and so you apply to become a children’s English teacher in South Korea, because your best friend is from Seoul and living there sounds like it could be fun.

Now you live there, and every day wake up in a boxy studio with only one frosted window. Slide the window back, the mosquito mesh, and the rusting metal shutters to look out the window: you live in a back alley surrounded by brown brick walls, dirty pipes, broken bottles and cigarette butts. A tangle of black wires skirts the sad skeleton of a birch tree. You are in the center of a city of 33 million which snakes into 28 more cities all choking with concrete skyscrapers, neon lights, K-Pop, and businessmen chugging on cigarettes.

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Photo by Fiona Thomson

You’ve spent ten months living in the megapolis, but this is the longest you have spent without leaving – a month since you last saw a horizon, since you last saw the sea, and you feel like you cannot breathe.

Early December, that was me.

Friday night, drinking rum with my friend Fi at a dive bar just off our street, she mentioned, ‘I’m taking the free bus down to Busan tomorrow morning. You should come.’ So I did.

Saturday morning, 9am. An hour into the bus journey put on for foreigners by the Korean Tourism Board, we were still amongst Seoul’s brutal highrises. Two hours in, we were surrounded by pine-covered mountains while thick snowflakes fell from the frigid sky.

As the melting snow turned black under the tyres of thousands of passing Hyundais and BMWs, tiny towns, factories and highrises, mountains and industrial farming villages passed by. Fi huddled against the window and read the Art of Loving, I rushed through Jack Kerouac’s Dharma Bums.

‘How was the book?’ She asked.

‘Beautiful, slow. He just spends his time going up mountains to pray, drinks too much wine. I want to be him. Can we play What Would Jack Do?’

‘What’s that?’

‘Just do what he would do.’

‘Get drunk?’

‘Exactly.’

2pm. It was warm and sunny when the bus dropped as off at one of the high-rise hotels lining Hyundae beach. Backpacks still on, at a food market off the main street we ate seafood pancakes that were shiny with cheap cooking oil.

‘Delicious.’ I lied. ‘Drink?’

At a mini-market we bought a bottle of black raspberry wine, hid it in a plastic bag and got steadily drunk for the rest of the afternoon.

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Wrapped up warm, we headed down the quiet beach, ate blue candyfloss, and lazily chased pink clouds drifting across the bay to a wooded park at the top of a cliff, joking around and laughing like inner-city kids let out, giddy from the cold wind and bright December light.

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Photo by Fiona Thomson

The pinks and oranges of the late afternoon sky deepened. ‘Follow that sun,’ said Fi. We ran, panting round a tired harbour, into a wharf that gleamed with new glass skyscrapers.

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Photo by Fiona Thomson

The sun fell quickly, filling the sky with golds and reds and raw fiery light, illuminating Gwangam bridge like it was San Francisco on a starry night.

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Photo by Fiona Thomson

The night was a whirl. We got purple helium balloons from some PR club boys on the street and rushed to the sea to watch our balloons float towards the light of the moon, up, up, up, until they were stardust.

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Into a bar called Fuzzy Navel, bartenders threw flaming bottles of liquer for packed floors of whistling Koreans and expats. We siphoned cheap plum wine into our now empty Daiquiri glasses and melted into the dancing crowd where a little baby caught our eyes.

‘There’s an actual baby in the bar.’ said Fi.

‘Get the pen! Get the napkins!’

We scrawled five verses of bad lyrics to the little babe, ‘What you doin’ up so late, baby in the club? Baby in the club. What you drinking, a milkshake?’

Fiona grabbed my hand, ‘Look, there’s a silver fox.’

‘Feefs, it’s just an old man. You’re drunk. Waaay.’ I slurred. ‘Let’s go.’

Into the cold, a mad man danced outside the bar, colliding with lampposts and drunks and tarpaulin food stands filled with the steam of bubbling red rice cakes.

We wandered back to our hostel above the sea and drifted to sleep under warm cotton sheets. Sleepy eyed on Sunday morning, the common area was an Ikea dream of Apple Macs and designer bean bags, blond wood floors and ten foot windows looking out to sea for $10 a night.

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Photo by Fiona Thomson

After coffee and toast, we bought more wine and for seven minutes rode on a little train. It crawled round the coast, past allotments full of cabbages and tumbling traditional Korean houses with the East Sea crashing below. We got off at Samyong beach where wild grass grew through pavement cracks.

A few surfers played in the waves. We climbed some crags on the edge of the beach, where candles were lit amongst the rocks, up to a pagoda where we silently watched the dancing waves.

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Photo by Fiona Thomson

Back on the white sand, white gulls all around, a naked boy ran into the sea. I took off my tights and jumped into the water, barefoot, free.

Danish Nostalgia

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Nostalgia: A yearning for the past, often in idealised form

I liked him as soon as we met in a red-lit hostel dorm in springtime Berlin. It was 2008. I was nineteen while he was twenty five, and we spent the day climbing over walls and following crows past the River Spree.’Oh Crowsies, rats of the sky, you are the best tour guides in this golden city’ he roared in his whisky warm, Australian voice. I laughed all day.

I’d always been too shy to laugh properly before, too shy to open people up into giving their best selves. Matt was different. As he ran after my airport train as I left the next day, waving a white tissue, all mock dismay, I laughed happy tears until they messed up my mascara.

Back in Copenhagen on university exchange, I spent the month of May like every other, hiding from the lovely little Danish family I lived with, who I was scared of bumping into in the hallway full of flowers and light.

I spent the month in the university library, studying for my final Law exams and reading warm emails from Matt in the strip-lit computer room, emails so long his friend reading over his shoulder nicknamed him Novella.

After nights out, I did as I always did and went to my best friend Ri’s shabby apartment near Orstedparken where we’d cuddle into bed. The next morning, with the magic of the night before faded, I’d stumble into the park, quiet in the grey dawn. The park wasn’t large or grand, just a simple sweep of water under weeping willows, but, I’d imagine Matt there, with me, sharing stories under a tree.

orstedparken denmark copenhagen
Exams ended, Ri went home to London and Matt emailed to say he would arrive on the first day of summer, a Saturday morning.

‘I will be wearing a moustache and glasses. I don’t want any paparazzi, so don’t tell anyone who you are going to meet. Actually, tell them you are picking up Billy Zane.
I can’t wait to see your smiling face. YOU BETTER BE SMILING.’

I arrived at the airport in my new white dress, holding a crumpled bag of salmon sandwiches I’d made for him, waiting and afraid, afraid that things might not be the same anymore, afraid he may no longer like me.

Then Matt was walking towards me, smiling, with his dark stubble and Ray Bans and wrinkles from too much drinking and joie de vivre. As he kissed me on the cheek, I smiled.

We had the keys to Ri’s apartment for two weeks, and spent every day at the park. The flowers had opened up and blossomed round the water, barbeque smoke drifted from friends playing Bob Marley in the sun.

The park was across the road from one of Copenhagen’s busiest subway stations, Norreport, with traffic all around. Yet I don’t remember the sounds of the city, just Matt, as he kissed the mole besides my right eye and said it’s where beauty spots should always be.

I’d put daisies in his ears and in his wavy Colombian hair until he looked like Oscar Wilde’s selfish giant. Memories within memories, it took me back to the happy daisy chains I made in the garden with dad when I was young.

Nostalgia within nostalgia, the willows grazing the water reminded me of visiting Monet’s garden, aged four, where mum and dad gently laughed at the American tourists gushing over the waterlilies, while I slowly realised that I wasn’t actually in Disneyland no matter what dad tried to say.

I gave Matt my memories, two decades of stories I’d never told anyone, and spoke the words of a year’s silence until I felt sad with the realisation of just how lonely I’d been.

Each morning I’d slip off to my own apartment, empty during weekdays, to breathe in the old silence, though invariably I’d end up asleep while America’s Next Top Model played on repeat.

Late, always late, each afternoon I’d rush out of the tube towards the park, finding him easily amongst all the blonde families. Kicking my sandals into the grass, I’d kneel down to hug him.

‘Sorry I’m late.’
‘You said you were going to be an hour.’
‘I was an hour.’
‘Really?’
‘Sure.’
‘You think you can fool me because I don’t have a watch?’
I buried into his shoulder, ‘Alright, I took two hours.’
‘Ailsa’
‘Alright, alright, Two and a half.’
‘Ails’, he laughed. ‘I can tell by the sun, by how much I’ve read, by how drunk I am, that you took longer than that.’

One afternoon, I pretended not to notice as he strolled up the hill, timed his DSLR, and captured us with the lake in the background, in matching floral clothes that blossomed in the sun, his strong hand placed on my bare knee.

Copenhagen’s red-roofed buildings were full of art galleries, independent cinemas and cafes, but we left them untouched. It was enough just to know that they were there. In my memories, we only left the park when the effects of wine and warmth and touch became too much.

On our last night, while we sat down in the silent park and looked out at the water, he howled made-up tunes into the sweet moonlight. Rubbing his feet that lay in my lap, I asked,

‘What are you thinking?’
‘Look at the reflections of that pole in the water. It’s like sausages being made in a factory.’
‘I was thinking of you’.

It was all I could do.

I knew I’d lost Matt after I visited him in Melbourne at the end of summer. Those last images of him develop unwanted, like spoiled photos in a darkroom, because by then, I’d lost myself to him, could no longer face him without make up in case I didn’t look pretty enough, could no longer draw pictures or write stories in case they weren’t creative enough, could barely talk in front of his friends because I felt I wasn’t good enough. Then six months later, back at university in Edinburgh, I received the email from him that finally admitted, ‘At the end, I didn’t feel it’.

I took down his sweet photos, and tried to let the bittersweet memories fade.

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